The era of the chunky sneaker is over

For over half a decade, kicks with chunky, eye-catching soles have dominated the world of sneakers. However, a clear change of direction is in the works – thin-soled retro sneakers such as the Adidas Gazelle or Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 are suddenly in the spotlight.

New Balance and Adidas focus on super-light sneakers

New Balance, of all companies, has launched one of the most hyped slim sneakers of the year. The US sporting goods manufacturer, which played a key role in the comeback of chunky, noughties-style running shoes, has now created the 530 SL – where SL stands for super light – in collaboration with luxury label Miu Miu. Its connection to the regular 530, the archetype of a dad sneaker, is barely recognisable; the characteristically chunky sole is missing. The design has proved an obvious success. According to the fashion search engine Lyst, the SL version was the most popular fashion item in the first quarter of the current year.

Another SL sneaker made its way into the limelight this year: the Adidas SL 72. This model first appeared in a catalogue for the 1972 Olympic Games in Munich and has been talked up in recent months as the «new Samba». The shoe also made it onto the Lyst podium in the second quarter, taking second place.

In collaboration with the Japanese label Issey Miyake, New Balance also launched the MT100, a new interpretation of the MT10, in spring. The MT10 is a trail running shoe from 2011, characterised by a barely-there sole with minimal cushioning, allowing the foot to feel the ground. A fitting model for creative director Satoshi Kondo, who was inspired by the mobility of barefoot shoes for the collaboration.

Chunky, sure – but please don’t overdo it

Thin-soled, minimalist silhouettes aren’t just a big topic in the world of sneakers; the trend is also evident in the revival of ballerina shoes and the popularity of pointed pumps. It’s clear that thick-soled shoes have lost their reign and are increasingly having to make way for nimble models. Mind you, this is by no means to say they’re no longer fashionable.

A look at the Lyst ranking for the second quarter of this year reveals that the generously padded Cloudtilt, a collaboration between On Running and Loewe, comes out on top. Nevertheless, there’s a clear trend towards a clean, classic aesthetic with the increased popularity of thin-soled shoes. Exaggerated models such as the Triple S by Balenciaga overshoot the mark. But typical noughties running shoes in the style of New Balance or Asics aren’t going anywhere anytime soon.

In the future, chunky sneakers may become a little more minimalist or functional. Trekking sneakers from outdoor brands such as Salomon and Merrell are also very popular at the moment. In general, we can observe the peaceful coexistence of contradictory trends more and more frequently in fashion. What a nice development!